Why is Shahtoosh banned?

What is a Shatoosh Shawl?

The word Shahtoosh comes from a Persian word, which means "king of wools". Shahtoosh refers to the fine wool made from the undercoat of the Tibetan antelope. Also known as Chiru goat, the Tibetan antelope is considered an endangered species under CITES. Therefore, Shahtoosh is banned in most of the countries in the world.  However, unfortunately, the weaving of Shatoosh shawls still continues secretly in Kashmir, due to high demand from the west.

How Shahtoosh shawls are made?

The Tibetan antelope or Chiru goat lives at an altitude of over 5,000 metres in one of the harshest conditions. To survive the freezing cold of the Himalayas in winter, it grows a special type of down fur, which is extremely warm. Chiru goat is a wild animal, and hence it has to be hunted down to obtain its wool. As chiru goats migrate to a point in a year, they are followed by hunters who find them and kill them for their skin, bones, meat, and pelts. The pelts are converted to precious Shahtoosh shawls and their long horns are taken by hunters as trophies. Note that it takes three to five Chiru goats to prepare one shawl.

It is this precious wool, which is later processed manually in Kashmir and made into luxury shawls. These are sold at around $US 20,000.

Shahtoosh Shawls in Kashmir - Variety and Colors

An off-white shade and a warm beige are two natural shades that Shahtoosh features. These colors are traditional and most used. However, Shahtoosh can be dyed in any shade of the spectrum, be it brights or pastels.

In addition to this, Shahtoosh shawls are sometimes embroidered, patterned in checks and modish patterns, covered in fringes, or colored in multiple shades. However, the grace of a plain Shahtoosh shawl is unparalleled.

History of Shahtoosh Shawls

Emperor Akbar was an ardent patron of Shahtoosh and Pashmina both, and he stared factories of the same. Shahtoosh remained his first choice. It was so fine, warm, and delicate that it could be passed through a finger-ring. Besides, kings got it embroidered in fine patterns and used it for themselves exclusively, mostly in natural colours

The Ban on the 'King of Wool'

The Tibetan Antelope is a wild goat and has to be thus hunted in order to obtain its fleece. Hunting saw a rise in the 19th and 20th centuries. By the end of the 20th century, the number of Chiru goats was less than 70000. The situation was considered alarming, and it led to the antelope now being listed as an endangered species. It was given the highest possible protection, as a result of which Shahtoosh was banned; its trade was barred in most of the countries that signed the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). As a result of this, there has been an improvement in the population of Chiru goats. Now it is considered as a 'near threatened' species.

Also read: Why are Pashmina Shawls banned?