What is a Water Pashmina Shawl?

Owning a pure Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is the dream of many art patrons who understand the nitty-gritty of art and culture. From the 16th century till now, this art has been the first choice of Mughal kings, European queens, and many more royalties all around the world. It is them who set Pashmina to timeless fashion long ago and it is still revered by the true admirers of classic fashion

In the world of fast fashion, it is really important to know what a Pashmina looks like. Well, a pure piece will be exceptionally soft, smooth, and warm. It will pass through a finger ring and will be as light as a feather. But did you know that these qualities can be easily copied now? Yes, some deceptive traders dip their sheep wool shawls in fabric softeners and get almost a shawl like the original one. So it is important to know what an original shawls or scarf looks like.

Characteristics of Pure Pashmina

Since the Pashmina shawl is made out of natural fibre, it will have a matte look. If your shawl or scarf glows too much or has an artificial shine like that of silk, know that your shawl isn't pure, but a mixture of cashmere and silk and hence a water pashmina

The weave of the Pashmina shawl is never symmetrical. That is because it is handwoven and hands do not weave as regularly as a machine can. Hence water Pashmina will have regular weaves. 

Pilling can happen to a pure Pashmina. Since it is a natural animal fibre, pilling is a must. If your shawl guarantees no pilling, it is a water pashmina

The Geographical Indication

On 5 August 2013, Kashmiri Pashmina was given the GI (Geographical Indication) certification.  It is a sign which corresponds to a specific geographical location or a specific origin. Since Kashmir Pashmina is the only Pashmina in the world that is spun over a traditional Charkha (locally known as the yinder), and traditional wooden handloom to weave, it is hence the most original. Hence, if you find the mark of GI (Geographical Indication) over your Kashmiri wrap, it would mean that the shawl is

Hand Spun

Hand woven

Fibre diameter 12-16 microns

And if your shawl has a GI tag attached to its base, rest assured. You are owning the purest form of Kashmiri Pashmina

Identifying a pure piece is a must. If customers do not have the true knowledge of how a Pashmina looks like, they will fall for water pashmina that is fake pashmina

Mixing of Pashmina

Some years back, a few traders noticed that the Pashmina trade was booming. The only thing that stopped its sale from touching the sky was its less production and higher demand. Hence to increase production, these traders introduced power looms into this trade. Power looms could manufacture the same shawl in five minutes which is handloom made in four long days. Hence the production of these “fake” shawls met the demands, and customers ran to their units.

Also read: How much does a Real Pashmina cost?

Machine Made Shawls

To bear the wear and tear and strain of the power loom, the fine and gentle Cashmere was altered in its weave. Some strengthening fibre like silk or nylon was mixed with pure Cashmere, and the resultant shawl was then treated with chemicals. These shawls did not last long, due to the destructive effects of chemical treatment. Moreover, the nylon threads were not always dissolved in the chemicals, and as such, the shawl would remain impure. 

What is a Water Pashmina Shawl?

Such a variant of Pashmina, where Cashmere is mixed with silk is called water Pashmina. Water Pashmina is 30 percent silk and 70 percent Cashmere. This variant is well known as it is deliberately made so for durability and shine. These scarves are lightweight, but not as warm as a pure Pashmina is. Nevertheless, they aren't even worn for the purpose of warmth, and usually, women love these for the beautiful flowy texture and a shimmery base. 

Manufacturers of water Pashmina claim that these can be worn all year round. This makes it obvious that this variety has nothing to do with pure Pashmina, which is uncomfortable to wear in hot summers. Water Pashminas are full of shine and are even reversible, but definitely, they aren't a type of pure and original Kashmiri Pashminas

Also read: 7 Questions you need to ask while you purchase a Real Pashmina