What animal does Cashmere come from?

Cashmere - the king of specialty fibres - possesses heavenly softness and fineness. It is one of the most sought-after fabrics in the world, with a well-deserving expensive price tag. And even after such immense popularity all over the world, there are still questions about it. These often come to mind while buying a new one. Questions like How is Cashmere made, What animal does Cashmere come from, and why is it so expensive and more like these are still in customers’ minds. Hence we decided to answer this one by one; hence make customers understand why they should invest in at least one Cashmere wrap in their lifetime. 

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the down fibre or undercoat derived from the domestic Changthangi or Pashmina goat which is a special breed of goats (Capra Hircus). The goat is found in the high altitudes of the Himalayas in Northern India. The hair is soft and fine with a diameter of just 12-16 microns. Fabric, mostly Pashmina shawls, made from Cashmere are known all over the world for their warmth, aesthetic value, and timelessness. Cashmere is the most luxurious fibre, and has three times more insulating power than sheep’s wool. 

How is Cashmere made (What does Cashmere come from)?

Cashmere comes from from the Changthangi goat’s body during the moulting period. This is the Spring season when the goat naturally sheds a portion of it. This fibre is to be collected, cleaned, and sent for processing.

What actually happens is that the Changthangi goat grows the Cashmere wool in winters, when it is freezing cold in this region of Ladakh. The wool protects the goat in winters, yet makes it uncomfortable in summers. This is the time when the goat can be seen rubbing itself with rough stones, walls, thorny bushes, and all over the place it inhabits. Seeing this, its nomadic herders call for professional help. Professionals bring along with themselves some specialized tools and gently comb the goat's body. The wool is stored in small ziplock pouches and later cleaned in batches by the locals. 

What animal does Cashmere come from?

As already mentioned, Cashmere comes from the Capra Hircus goat, locally known as Changthangi goat. It is also called Cashmere/Pashmina goat due to the raw wool that comes from it.

The Changthangi Goat

Changthangi goats are found at high altitudes in the trans Himalayan mountain ranges bordering Tibet. They are localised in the Changthang, a sub division of Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. The region has extreme temperature and weather changes. As such, high intensity storms, dry atmosphere, hypoxia and other factors are common. These factors make the life of animals as well as their owners extremely challenging and tough. 

Changthangi goats are sturdy, medium sized with long hair coats. An adult male goat has a body length of 50 to 53 cm and is almost the same as the female one's dimensions. The goats have a large heart girth (60 to 65 cm adult) which helps them survive the low oxygen conditions. Changthangi goats have a long coat of silky and shiny hair which guards the animal against low temperatures. Usually the goats are horned (both male and female), but a few animals can be seen without horns as well. Horns are long and twisted, and directed upwards or backwards. The body colour of the Changthangi goats is generally white, but light brown, black, grey or a mixture of all these can be easily found on the way.The whole body is covered with the fine coat of Cashmere wool. These animals look stout and can walk long distances in search of green pastures and herbs.

The Changthangi goat is a strong animal that has very well adapted to the scarcity of grazing possibilities in the changtang region. Their weights as reported by authentic sources is 2 kgs at birth and over 25 kgs as adults for both males and females. 

Cashmere produced by Changthangi goats

The wool produced by Changthangi goats is the finest in the world. When the wool is combed off from their bodies, it is just lumps of wool. But as the wool is hand spun by artisans, it transforms to thin fibre whose diameter is just 12 to 16 microns. These fine threads are at times barely visible to the naked eye, but the specialist hands of artisans even weave these thin threads into complete accessories. 

One single goat produces 76 to 500 grams of Cashmere which is not even enough to prepare one shawl. Hence, wool from 2 to 3 goats is collected, cleaned and processed to produce a shawl of 100 * 200 cm measurements. 

It was the Kashmiri Pashmina shawl, crafted from Ladakhi Cashmere, which was worn by Empress Josephine (wife of Emperor Napoleon), and set to a timeless fashion henceforth. Since then, Cashmere wraps and scarves have been world famous, and irrespective of their high prices, are sold all over the world. 

Conditions in Changthang

Ladakh is a region characterised by sandy soil and brown rocks in between snow covered Himalayan mountain ranges. The temperature in the summer reaches 35 degrees C and in winter dips to as low as -50 degrees C. This large variation in summer and winter as well as day and night temperature causes life to be pretty difficult in these areas. Changthang region is a native breeding region for the Cashmere goats. This area is comparatively rich in water supply, and hence cultivation, even though meagre, is done here. Since less water supply can't help crops grow, it is animal farming that survives herders in Changthang.  

The unmatched beauty of Ladakhi Pashmina

The Cashmere from Changthangi goats is used to make Kashmiri Pashmina shawls. These are famous all over the world, and have been so since the 18th century. As such, these are the Cashmere wraps which the world always keeps an eye on. Even though Cashmere is found in many areas, the wraps made from Changthangi Cashmere and processed in Kashmir valley are considered the best.

Ladakhi Cashmere does not have a stable colour. The colour ranges from a complete white to grey depending upon the colour of the goats. A few goats are of more than a single colour. White and off white goats produce white Cashmere and dark grey goats produce light grey shaded Cashmere. White Cashmere has the highest demand and hence fetches the highest price, while grey Cashmere stands the second best. Some, however, prefer brown to grey.

The production from an individual goat ranges from a meagre 75 grams to 500 grams. Over 500 grams is considered the highest production. Males produce more Cashmere than the females, but their fibre is comparatively coarser. Castrated males produce more Cashmere than those who are not. After 5 combing sessions, the Cashmere production decreases. 

The quality of Cashmere from the goats depends on a number of factors like gender, age, body weight, availability of nutrition and the colour of Cashmere grown. 

Where do Cashmere goats live?

Cashmere comes from a goat. Cashmere goat is commonly found in Mongolia, China, Iran, Tibet, and Northern India. The Cashmere which is processed in Kashmir is the best of all and has the finest quality amongst all its counterparts. It comes from Ladakh and grown on the underbellies of the indigenous Cashmere goat, which grows it in place of fat that it would need to protect itself from winter on the freezing cold plains of its homeland. 

Where does Cashmere come from?

There is a misconception that Cashmere is a relatively new fabric. But it is not so. The fine wool was first discovered by a Sufi saint in Ladakh, who had visited the valley in the 14th century. But it wasn't until the 16th century that Cashmere manufacturing units started in the valley, and gradually spread all over the world. 

In the 18th century, Cashmere reached the west. Europeans discovered this luxury fabric and got pretty much fascinated by its regal mien. Soon they imported it into Scotland and France mainly, despite the high prices for importing. Now, this luxury wool did not remain restricted to Indian rulers only, but royals in the west too adorned themselves with its royal demeanor. In fact, it is still imported by Europeans, although it is much refined before its sale locally.

After its thorough processing, Cashmere is sent to Europe and sold to a number of merchants, who transform it into luxury wraps, cardigans, sweaters, or even dresses. 

Is this luxury wool Ethical? 

While there have been rumors of the Cashmere collection being cruel to the goats, that is not the case. Many believe that during the moulting period, goats are forcibly dealt with and even killed to get Cashmere. However, that is not the case. The Changthangi goat is a domestic animal, and its herders do not need to use force upon it, and that too for a process that isn't painful at all. 

Professionals who acquire Cashmere from the goats do not shear, but comb the fibre off the body of the goat gently. This process is carried out when the goat anyway wants to get rid of the wool, i.e, Spring.  Later, when Winter arrives, the goats again naturally grow the wool back and survive one of the harvest winters in the world. 

Also read: Are Animals killed for Pashmina?

Is Cashmere sustainable?

On the contrary, Cashmere processing and acquisition can be regarded as sustainable. The reason being its minimum contribution to environmental hazards. Here is how the production is sustainable

• Its acquisition is ethical. No animal is harmed or killed in the process.
• Its processing is manual. There is no use of pollution-causing machines, and every process is done manually by the womenfolk and men from the valley. Spinning, Weaving, embroidering, and washing, every activity with regards to the production of Cashmere wraps and apparel are safe for the planet
• Cashmere production is the only source of income for some families. Hence every Cashmere we buy encourages the survival of an artisan and his family. 
• Cashmere contributes to slow fashion. A purely handcrafted wrap or apparel can last up to 25 or 30 years, and not even lose its grace a bit. Kashmiri women used to give their 30-year-old shawls to their newlywed daughters as gifts, and these would look as fresh as new. Hence, again, Cashmere production is environmentally conscious. 

Also read: Cashmere: For Weddings and Beyond

The question of Purity

When buying Cashmere, one has to pay special attention to its purity. Always shop from authentic vendors or online shops. Ask your dealer to present to you the certificate of authentication provided by the CDI (Craft Development Institute, Srinagar). If he is not able to do so, refrain from buying. Look for the Geographical Indication - the GI mark - which is a mark of authentication over the base of the shawl. 

Do not fall for blended, or machine-made products especially wrap. These won't last long. Always choose pure, certified Cashmere from authentic vendors. 

Also read: Sustainable Fashion: Kashmiri Shawls Bringing The True Meaning To Pashmina

Pure Cashmere and Pashmina.com

Pashmina.com is a recent player in the Cashmere industry, but fortunately an authentic one. The organisation directly contacts the makers of the purest Cashmere products and sells them online to customers all across the globe. The shawls have a certificate attached to them, which speak of their originality and purity. The assortment of the breathtakingly beautiful handcrafted wraps consists of GI Pashmina shawls as well. 

Apart from being in their purest form, Cashmere wraps at Pashmina.com are patterned in conventional as well as contemporary designs. Be it hand embroidery which is done on the wraps by immense skillful artisans, or Kani weave, that takes years to complete, artisans put their heart and soul in the process. 

The Artistic Art of Pashmina

The processing of Cashmere into luxury shawls is an art called Pashmina. Pashmina shawls are nothing less than art pieces that upgrade one’s looks in an instant. But as we see the source of these shawls, i.e, the Changthangi goat, and the region it survives in, makes them even more beautiful. The harshest conditions of Ladakh, and the ability of the goat to survive in them makes Pashmina shawls the most sought out accessory in the entire world.