How can you tell if a Pashmina is real?

Only a few buyers are smart and knowledgeable shoppers when it comes to fabric. Most of us while buying a fabric pick one that feels good, or it has a nice color, maybe a favorite one, or other petty reasons excluding the actual fruit. Even though there are some tangibles for which such unconscious shopping is justified. But what happens if you shop carelessly for something that is a lifetime investment? You regret the decision for the rest of the year. A person usually buys a Pashmina scarf just once or twice in his entire lifetime. It is an exceptional craft & in ancient times it would only be affordable to queens and the affluent. But now since it is easily available, people easily afford it. As such an authentic Pashmina has become hard to find.

When buying a Pashmina there are a number of things a buyer needs to keep in mind. It is not the colour, design, and size that matters in a Pashmina, but purity, originality, and authenticity. 

• Is your Pashmina original? 
• How to test my Pashmina?
• Is my Pashmina Authentic?
• How do I know if my Pashmina is pure? 
• Where to buy a pure Pashmina from? 

We answer all these questions, but first, we ask ourselves: why is the purity of Pashmina an issue? Do we always care about the material when we shop for wraps or apparel? We don't! Then why care about the authenticity and originality of Pashmina so much? We tell you why

What is Pashmina?

Every time you go shop for apparel, it is just an in-vogue set of fabrics styled to the latest fashion, which you see in the shop, on TV, on the internet, or elsewhere. However, Pashmina wraps aren't like this. Because Pashmina is an art.

In the 16th century, Kashmir was a place reeling under darkness; the darkness of being economically backward, ignorance, and inequality of caste system and social status. But when a Sufi Saint from Persia visited the valley, these social prejudices and economic issues improved drastically. This was Shah I Hamdan, who not only uplifted the nation morally but economically as well. With a team of more than 700 craftsmen, who were masters of their skills from Persia, China, Egypt, and Russia, Shah I Hamdan managed to train local Kashmiri men and women in some handicrafts for which Kashmir became famous.

Shah E Hamdan and Pashmina

Among the crafts that Shah I Hamdan taught the locals were the following; carpet manufacturing, shawl making, Papier Mache, copper work, silverwork, embroideries, calligraphy, bookbinding, and many more. But one craft that caught the attention of the maximum number of people who opted for it was Pashmina. Pashmina was the art of converting fine Cashmere wool to luxury scarves or shawls. These were so graceful and magical in their making, that royalty and commoners all over the world swooned.

However, it was Zain Ul Abideen, the then king of the Kashmir valley, during whose rule the Pashmina manufacturing units came into existence and the art thrived. The king enlivened the art of Pashmina by encouraging people to make it a cottage industry. This was especially for women. The king offered women the proposal to work from their respective homes. If so, they would be able to earn even in those days when the valley would be completely cut off from the outside world due to enormous amounts of snow (the harsh winter period, which would last for almost 6 months - or even more).

Hence the economy drastically improved and Kashmir became renowned for a number of arts - especially that of Pashmina. Now Kashmiri artisans would be invited to places near and far, nationally and internationally. They would be requested to train local artisans who would take training sessions from them

Making of a Pashmina Scarf

Perhaps the most meticulous processes are those included in making a Pashmina scarf. Be it a Pashmina shawl, scarf, or stole, the way it is handcrafted is not an ordinary one. A scarf has to roughly pass around 30 stages before it can be sold to its admirers all over the world. As many as 36 individuals, who are masters in a different skill than the previous one, are involved. Thus a Pashmina scarf becomes a family affair. If the man takes care of weaving Cashmere, women might be busy with spinning and other family members would spend time embroidering or calendaring the scarf.

It all starts with the spinning of raw Cashmere by the womenfolk of a family. They spend almost all day cleaning, sorting, smoothening, and spinning raw Cashmere. Women collect raw Cashmere wool from those who acquire it from Ladakh. This practice is as old as Pashmina itself in Kashmir. Women of all ages have spun Cashmere at some point in time. Nowadays this practice is largely done by machines.

After spinning the wool is sent for weaving where men of the family mount the fine-spun yarn onto a wooden handloom and spin it into wraps, stoles, scarves, and more. This results in the formation of a plain wrap; it can be embellished in any way one can - the most common being embroidery. Hence, these pieces are hand embroidered in a number of embroideries, which are again all traditional to the valley.

Embroideries on Pashmina need to be done by hand as the underlying fabric is too delicate, gentle, and gossamer to bear the burden of thicker machine threads.

Why choose pure?

When huge revenues started pouring into the valley on account of the sale of heavenly warm Pashmina scarves, a few traders indulged in unethical practices. Pashmina scarves are handmade, and one scarf can be handwoven in a span of 3-4 days. Hence customers have to wait for a long time before the product comes out of the loom. And if someone needs an embroidered piece, he/she has to wait for years for the product to get embroidered woven, and spun. Hence revenue gets stuck, and makers have to wait for their share for a long time.

Some traders, therefore, gave away to frauds and started making scarves on power looms. The power loom could prepare the same scarves in one hour that the handloom did in 4 days. To make the soft and delicate Cashmere bear the strain of machines, these traders would mix strengthening fibre like nylon, or silk with Cashmere, and then pass it through a machine. As such more quantity and less quality Pashmina scarves were manufactured. And thus finding a pure Pashmina scarf became a challenge, as well as a luxury to possess.

The Deception

Imagine investing in a $2000-4000 shawl and then coming to know that it is not Pure Pashmina. How much effort was wasted? The people who acquire the raw fibre from Ladakh, the women who spun it, the men who had to weave it on the handloom, and the embroiderers who would feel it a pleasure to embroider handmade Pashmina, all feel cheated when greedy vendors make scarves on power looms. Hence the need to buy a pure Pashmina rose. Ardent patrons of the art became more and more active in search of pure shawls. They started questioning the sellers, and looking for flaws in their already purchased pieces, but didn't know how to spot a fake Pashmina.

So we decided to write this article to assist the general audience in finding the purest, authentic and certified Pashmina for them, and enjoy its luxurious warmth and graceful demeanor it exudes.

How can you tell a real Pashmina? | How can you tell if your Pashmina shawl is pure?

Real Pashmina, possesses distinctive qualities that can help identify its genuineness. A true pashmina is famous for its exceptional softness, lightweight feel, and exquisite warmth. This stems from the unique climate conditions and natural fibers of the Himalayan region. When examining a pashmina, one has to look for a number of factors. Authentic pashminas often display handcrafted designs, intricate patterns, and fine embroidery. Hence they showcase the artisanal craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. While assessing its authenticity, consider the source, price, and reputation of the seller, as well as any certification or labeling that might accompany the product.

Here are a few factors to notice when buying a Pashmina:

Did the seller present to you a Certificate?

If your seller isn't giving you a scarf with the GI tag on it, it can still be pure and original, but on one condition; he should be able to present to you a certificate. Craft Development Institute (CDI) Srinagar is an organization that issues certificates for pure Pashminas on the basis of purity and authenticity. It measures a number of things like micron conformation, weight, purity, handmade certification, and more. If a seller can produce this certificate for a scarf, then the piece is an authentic Pashmina. 

Look for Variety in Pashmina scarves

Even though this might not always be the case, if a seller has a large variety of Pashminas scarves, or has a large number of customers who trust him and speak well of his quality products, chances are that he is an authentic dealer. This is because a large number of manufacturers will put their trust in an authentic vendor. As such, readily sell him their painstakingly produced authentic Pashmina pieces.

On the other hand, a seller who isn't authentic might not be able to attract more manufacturers because of the lack of trust, as well as won't have a large customer base.

An Authentic Pashmina scarf can't be too cheap

Pashmina is the art of handcrafted luxury fabric out of fine Cashmere wool, which an exotic Pashmina goat grows over its sensitive areas like belly and throat. It is this wool that makes the goat survive a harsh -40 degrees temperature. This raw wool then comes to Kashmir. There artisans spin and weave it into luxury accessories and apparel. The entire process is time-consuming, painstaking, and patience-testing, and consumes a lot of labour and effort. Hence, an authentic Pashmina is a little higher on the price scale. 

Similarly, there are sellers who, to make the customers happy, sell their scarves at a low price, which is too good to be true for a Pashmina scarf. These are sellers of fake pieces who sell either pure wool in place of Pashmina or mix Pashmina and silk and sell it as a pure piece. Always make it a point to thoroughly check the authenticity of the seller as well as the scarf that he is selling you.

Also read: THE TRAIL OF INDIA’S CASHMERE GOAT MEN

Uneven Weave and Eyelash Fringes

When buying a pure Pashmina, don't look for perfection, because a handmade product will never be even in texture. The weave should be rather gauzy, an open weave because fine Cashmere fibre cannot tolerate high tension. If you hold a real Pashmina up to the light it should show the mastery of the ‘hand’ of the weaver, which means the weave should be uneven. Shuttle speeds of power loom tend to tear the fragile fibre. Hence to weave an authentic Pashmina, a traditional Kashmiri wooden loom has to be used.

For the same reason, a genuine & real pashmina should never have tasseled edges but a simple ‘eyelash’ fringe, because the fibre is not strong enough to twist and pull in that fashion.

Look for the (Geographical Indication) GI tag on a Pashmina Scarf

To preserve the purity of the art of Pashmina making, the govt of Jammu and Kashmir has rewarded pure Pashmina with a GI tag.

GI (Geographical Indication) is a mark of purity that distinguishes pure Pashmina from its fake copies. It is similar to a stamp, located at the corners of a scarf. If a scarf shawl or any Pashmina product contains this stamp, it is 100% pure and authentic Pashmina of Kashmir.

It is quintessential to have good information on Pashmina quality and pricing before you start shopping for the cherished luxury piece, which comes straight from Paradise-Kashmir. It is, after all, the dream of women all over the world to own just one piece of Pashmina. Hence we made sure it is of the best quality

Own a Pashmina already? Test your Pashmina at home to check purity.

5 tests to check your Pashmina purity at home

Identifying pure Pashmina can be challenging because there are many imitations and blends in the market. If you already own a Pashmina, and now have doubts about its purity, we got solutions. There are a few purity tests that one can conduct at home. Keep in mind that a combination of these methods is often the most reliable way to confirm purity. Here are five essential tests that one can easily do at home to confirm the purity of their Pashmina.

Fibre Thickness

Pure Pashmina fibres are extremely fine, typically measuring between 12 to 15 microns in diameter. You can use a microscope to examine the fibres in a small section of the fabric. You can take your shawl or scarf to a nearby lab and get it professionally tested too. If the fibres are significantly thicker, it may indicate that the product is not pure Pashmina.

The Burn Test

This test involves burning a small piece of the fabric. Pashmina is made from animal fibres and will smell like burnt hair when ignited. It will also leave a fine ash residue. Synthetic materials or blends tend to produce different smells and may not leave ash behind.

The Touch Test

Pure Pashmina is incredibly soft to the touch. Run your fingers across the fabric's surface and see if it feels exceptionally soft and luxurious. Synthetic or blended materials often lack this softness.

The Price and Source

Authentic Pashmina is a premium product, and the price should reflect its quality. If you purchased this Pashmina shawl or scarf at a significantly lower cost than what is typical for genuine Pashmina shawls or scarves. Additionally, if you have purchased it from reputable sources or sellers who provided certification of authenticity, then you need not worry.

Irregular Weave of Pashmina

Pure Pashmina fabric often exhibits an irregular or slightly textured weave, and this unique characteristic is one of the hallmarks of authentic Pashmina. A sequenced and regular weave can be done by a machine. Authentic Pashmina shawls and scarves are often handwoven by skilled artisans. The handmade nature of the weaving process can result in slight irregularities in the weave pattern. These imperfections are not considered flaws but rather a testament to the craftsmanship and authenticity of the product.

Conclusion

In conclusion, determining the authenticity of a Pashmina is a matter of careful observation and a series of tests that can help you make an informed decision. The allure of Pashmina lies in its exceptional softness, lightweight warmth, and timeless elegance, making it a sought-after addition to any wardrobe. However, with the market flooded with imitations and blends, it becomes crucial to distinguish genuine Pashmina from the rest.

Investing in a real Pashmina not only provides you with a luxurious and timeless accessory but also connects you to a rich cultural heritage and supports the skilled artisans who craft these exquisite pieces. In your quest for authenticity, trust your senses and seek out reputable sources to experience the true beauty of pure Pashmina.

Also read: WHY IS THE PASHMINA VERY THIN YET VERY WARM?