Is Cashmere Cruel?

Cashmere apparel and wraps are the solutions to almost all the winter woes that are related to cold. These are revered all over the world for their softness, fine texture, and exceptional warmth. Products made from Cashmere both look and feel beautiful. These are nature friendly due to being processed from natural fibre. These are considered the best buy in Fall and Winter seasons. But the question is - What is Cashmere, and where does it come from. Also, is cashmere cruel?

What is Cashmere?

Cashmere is the downy undercoat of the rare Changthangi goat, which is found in Ladakh, Northern India. Apparel, wraps, and accessories made from it are extraordinarily warm, lightweight, and feathery soft to the touch. Cashmere is manually sourced from Ladakh. The goat's hair is ethically acquired and processed to get opulent assortments of warm winter apparel and accessories. The most popular use of Cashmere wool is in the making of Kashmiri Pashmina shawls.
The word Pashmina is derived from "Pashm" which translates to "soft gold" in the same language. How apt is the term!

Also read: How are Pashmina Shawls made?

Making of Cashmere Wraps

Cashmere is acquired from Ladakh, where a high altitude, cold desert of Changthang is situated over 14,000 feet above sea level. This region experiences an extremely harsh and cold temperature (minus 50 degrees at times). Because of these conditions, vegetation is difficult to grow naturally. Hence to survive the condition, the locals herd goats for milk, meat, and skin. These goats, called the Changthangi goats, are the ones that grow fine wool over their bodies. This protects them too from the bitter temperatures outside.

As soon as winter ends and warmth engulfs the region of Changthang, the same protecting wool feels uneasy and discomforting for the goat. It ends up rubbing its body against hard bushes and rocky surfaces till a portion of the wool is lost.

Being watchful of the agony of the goat, its herders call for professional help. These specialists manage to gently comb off the remaining wool from its body. Specialized tools and combs of various sizes are utilized here. Now the goat freely roams around as summer arrives. It is important to know that the goat gradually grows this wool back as soon as winter is about to begin. Therefore, it wouldn't be right to say that cashmere is cruel as it is extracted to free the goats and help them survive summer.

The Actual Processing

The wool in its raw form is contaminated, full of foreign material. This might include, guard hair, dirt, and dust. Hence it is handed over to the womenfolk of Kashmir, who begin with cleaning the wool and make it eligible for processing. Later the same group of women spins it manually over a wooden spinning wheel which transforms the wool into fine yarn. This yarn is sent to handloom units, where the same is mount over handlooms, to produce luxury shawls, scarves, or simply plain fabric. It is a matter of 3-4 days in which weavers spend 8-10 hours per day weaving it. The result is the production of mesmerizing pieces, which are further embellished by embroidery artisans (if required) in a number of embroideries, native to the Kashmir valley.

Ethical Produce or Cruelty to Animals

As the demand for Pashmina rose and Europeans and natives alike were swooned by its magical demeanor, Cashmere came under the lens of the general public as well as animal activists, who argued that its production is cruel, and animals are harshly treated during the process. Some claimed that animals are stripped of the wool in chilly winters, and they die of cold thereafter. Fortunately, none of this is true.

The animals grow the wool in winter and naturally shed it in Spring. And why would herders let the animal die when they have no other alternative to survival in Changthang's cold and arid atmosphere. Cashmere goats are domestic and are taken thorough care of. They have proper sheds, food, water, and warmth when they require it. In fact, Cashmere processing is ethical, as well as sustainable. Neither are animals hurt nor is the environment polluted during the process. Each step into the making of products is manual, and there is no inclusion of machines anywhere.

Also read: Are Animals killed for Pashmina?

Ban on Shahtoosh

The commotion occurred when Cashmere was confused with Shahtoosh. Shahtoosh is acquired from the Tibetan Antelope, but the antelope has to be killed before acquiring the fibre from it. That is because Tibetan Antelope is a wild animal, and it has to be forcefully caught. Hence herders wait for the group of antelopes to come together at a certain place, where they kill them and collect the wool to make high-end luxury shawls called Shahtoosh shawls. These are really high priced, and since they are banned, they sold secretly and stealthily amongst irresponsible traders and customers.

Is Cashmere Cruel?

Because of Shahtoosh, and the cruelty associated with shahtoosh shawls, Cashmere, too, was considered cruel. But the same was not true. Cashmere is ethically acquired, with it being a natural fibre. It is processed without the use of machines, hence adding to being responsible produce. Cashmere products, when pure, remain intact for over 25 years, which makes it a sustainable product, denying the claims of fast fashion patrons.

Also read: Sustainable Fashion: Kashmiri Shawls Bringing The True Meaning To Pashmina

Kashmiri Pashmina - What's not to Love

Is Cashmere cruel? Absolutely not. Kashmiri Pashmina shawl or cashmere shawl making is an honorable traditional art. It has received accolades from the day it was first discovered in the 15th century. Hence every piece crafted even today is an emotional tribute to its makers, who would make shawls in the 15th or 16th centuries. Such impassioned craft pieces are least imaginable to be cruel to animals or the environment alike.